(Va & Nikita, Fiji)
I had just experienced my first and worst year at
college. A wrong major, extremely freezing Bostonian weather, and the culture
shock attached to it all made me hop on this airplane a day ago. I
needed to meet new people and experience a change of breath. It was
my first time to just spontaneously travel to the South Pacific in
search of adventure. I didn't bring a lot of money with me, just
enough to survive on a tight budget. I was determined and hopeful to
have an amazingly fresh and audacious experience, but was still
apprehensive. I found myself dealing with a moment of extremely
anxiety as I waited for the airplane to land.
Alone and confused I had arrived to Nadi, the capital of
Fiji, twenty hours ago. The place had seemed so completely new to
anything I had ever seen. The blend of orange and
violet rays in the sky, the tall vivid green grass fields, and the
gentle smiles of the people on this little island quickly saluted me.
A small tourist bus was waiting at the airport to take me to the bungalows, where I would stay for the next couple of weeks. The ride lasted
about an hour. I could hardly manage to stay awake and just snuggled
up to the back seat and snoozed off. When we finally arrived at the bungalows, and
after picking up my keys at the reception desk, I decided to take a
nap and recuperate the lost sleep, before heading out.
Exactly five hours later when the sun was radiant and
crispy, I awoke. I got up from my scrawny, uncomfortable bed and head
to the bathroom. After brushing my teeth and face, I decided to head
out. A quick fresh breath of Fijian air made me feel alive and
excited to see what awaited me. As I opened the door of the cabin and
stepped out, I noticed the place was filled with young families and
couples. I didn't find anyone to spend some time with. I decided to
walk towards the beach area in front of the bungalows to get away
from that crowd.
The air was silent and calm; almost deserted, and I
wondered why no one was there. The sterile wind blew against my face.
I pulled my hair back in a ponytail and noticed two figures in the
distance. At this point, I could only see their silhouettes. They
both had very dark skin, were about six foot two at least, had medium
sized black afros, and were wearing white T-shirts and sarongs tied
around their waists. I still couldn't tell if they were men or women.
As I continued approaching the figures, the smell of fresh sea salt
and coconut entered my pores. I noticed they were breaking
open a coconut against a broken piece of wood stuck in the sand. The
coconut suddenly smashed and they began cheering. At this point I was
pretty near them, about ten feet away.
-“Hello”, I said friendlily.
-“Hello”, they both responded. “Where are you go?”
The conversation in broken English began flowing slowly,
but surely. I told them I was from a small island too, called Puerto Rico and I
showed them my towel, which had a Puerto Rican flag on it. I took the
only picture I took that day. I was savoring the sea and my mouth
began to water. The breeze softly caressed my cheeks. I was feeling
so sweet.
-“You want to come to meet my family in the village”,
said the taller of the two.
I thought about it for a second and then figured it
would be an interesting experience. Still not knowing the sex of
these people, I asked them if the village was far. They pointed
towards the sun and began laughing.
“No, very near to here”, they answered.
After a couple more bites of creamy coconut, I followed
my new friends back to their village. Their names, they told me, were
Nikita and Va. They spoke in a very soft gentle voice, although in a
monotonous tone.
The walk to the village took around fifteen minutes.
They walked in front of me for most of the time speaking in a quick
dialect among themselves. I strolled behind, giggling to myself. I
couldn't help being goofy. The scenery seemed so fresh and untouched,
and I was excited to see their village. Nikita and Va were still
carrying their last chunks of coconut in their hands. I had already
eaten mine. My mouth still tasted of creamy coconut milk. The sun on
my face gave me life. I didn't speak much along the way, for I felt
that whatever I said wouldn't give justice to what I was
experiencing. We were now about to enter the village, and I smiled as
the villagers stared at me curiously.
Everyone looked similar: the same medium sized afro,
charcoal skin, and colorful sarongs tied around their waists. All the villagers were tall and robust. Babies were running free in the vibrant
green grass; mother were cooking in their tepees, and the men seemed
to just be hanging outside under the crispy sun.
Nikita suddenly disappeared in all the commotion and I
was left with Va who led me inside one of the shagged-looking tepees.
-“This is my cousin house”, he said. “We stop here
one minute to wait for Nikita, yes?”
- “Sure”, I responded.
We took our shoes off and stepped into the tiny straw
house. I noticed there was only one twin-sized bed. It had a couple
of dirty, worn out blankets on it. Va told me later how six of his
relatives lived in that tepee. Six people to one bed!, I
thought.
I sat down on the
handwoven floor mat. A couple of people stepped inside and sat next
to me in a circle. There was a lot of commotion and the Fijian
language made me feel like more of a complete outsider. I could only
understand a couple of words in English they used when speaking. Big
fat flies were flying around my bare legs and face. The place was
filthy, but even so, I felt so satisfied to have finally met some
friendly people. Va's relatives seemed happy for me to be there. They
all stared and smiled at me inquisitively. A small semi-broken radio
was playing a popular Fijian song and a couple of people started
singing along. The sweet melody of the singer's voice felt like
seventh heaven to my ears. I then turned my head and noticed Nikita
had returned with a big wooden bowl of traditional kava in one hand, and a large
container in the other.
She greeted me with a
warm smile and handed me the wooden bowl filled with a whitish liquid.
-“You wanting?”, he
asked.
I figured "In Rome like the Romans", so why not? I wanted to share my ecstasy with these people, so I said
yes. She poured a cup of kava for me, and placed a couple of pre-rolled joints on the floor mat. She grabbed one of the cigarettes and quickly
lit one up. The THC filled the room, and after a couple of
puffs, she passed it on to the person next to me. Nikita
handed me another cup of kava, and the room soon achieved an
enlightened state of highness in which everyone was just talking to
each other, laughing, singing, and smiling. Soon enough Va
stood up and began dancing to the tropical beats of the music. A
couple of people joined him, including myself. I couldn't
think of anywhere else I wanted to be at that moment, I
thought to myself.
Va's
aunt then told me they were hungry and wanted to go to the market in
the center of town to buy chicken.
-“Sure”, I said.
“Let's go”.
I'll buy a couple of chickens for these people, I
thought. They probably cost pennies and I'd like to pay
them back for their friendliness.
We quickly said goodbye to the rest of the crowd. I was
only carrying my fannypack around my shoulder with the equivalent of
fifty dollars inside it, and grabbed it on my way out. Va's two aunts
led the way in front of me. Both of the women were barefoot, and
only spoke a couple of words in English. Their feet looked stronger
than their hands for some reason. I kept wondering how they could
walk barefoot on the boiling pavement so naturally without fearing
getting cut or being too hot. I never knew the names of these women.
They never showed any interest in learning mine either.
The taller woman hailed a small yellow taxi outside the
entrance of the village and we hopped in. After a short taxi ride
through the flamboyantly brilliant countryside, the driver let us out
at the local supermarket after the other woman handed him a medium
sized coin. As we entered the supermarket, both of the women suddenly
disappeared. I got distracted staring at the exotic , fresh, juicy
fruit being sold on the street.
I'm not quite sure how much time must have passed until
I saw the women again, but it was probably around ten minutes or so.
I stepped inside the grocery store and the women appeared out of
nowhere with their hands filled with food. They walked to the
check-out stand and placed three bags of rice, curry, four whole
chickens, a sack of potatoes, some spices, and some other seasonings
on the counter. The cashier began to add the costs of the products. I
was in awe as the women began to stare at me with slightly evil, but
convincing grins, as though to hint that I had to pay for everything.
I really didn't have a lot of money for this trip, and
was really only planning to buy chicken for them. Even so, I kept my
cool and as the cashier summed it all up, the total cost turned out
to be around twenty dollars. I paid it, realizing one of the women
had stepped away and had resisted to pay it herself. I had to carry
the bags out of the store to where the woman was standing. The taller
of the two had stayed inside. I turned my head and noticed she had disappeared again. What is it with these people, I thought.
They
kept disappearing and appearing again.
The taller women signaled me with her index finger for
me to enter the store again.
-“My brothers wanting rum”, she said. “Can you buy
this one? Yes?”
I obviously didn't want to spend any more money on
groceries, nor did I want the rum. Even so, I didn't want to make
these full-bodied robust women angry.
-“How much is it?”, I asked.
She grabbed my arm and pulled me to the liquor section
of the store. The small bottle of dark rum was sitting in the corner
shelf. She pointed to it and with a sad puppydog face said:
-“Fourteen. Please buy for them”.
I was pissed off at this point. Fourteen dollars was way
more than I was willing to spend for this freaking rum. I definitely did not want it. She continued trying to convince me in a soft voice.
I was annoyed at her sad puppydog faces, my stomach began to growl of
hunger, and I just wanted to leave. I handed her the money from my
pocket, and we were soon off again. None of them thanked me for the
whole week's worth of groceries. The shorter woman hailed another
taxi, we put the bags in the back of the car, and drove back to the
village. I was glad to get back to the tepee.
I sat next to Va and later found out he was the same age as I was: eighteen. He
was sweet to me and didn't make me feel uncomfortable at all. His
eyes had an honest light to them and his smile was wide and humble.
A while after we began feeling the effects and the numbness of the kava. I started smelling the curry from the kitchen. It was almost ready for eating.
It was still light outside, I could feel the sun rays soaking through
the tepee roof. I hadn't eaten anything all day and I was starving at
this point. After a couple more rounds, Va's aunt served me a plate
of food. No one else had one and after seeing the confused look on my
face, Va explained to me how their custom was for the guests to eat
before everyone else. I thanked the woman for the deliciously spicy
smelling food and quickly began eating with my fingers. This was my
first taste of Fijian curry. It was so scrumptious my mouth wouldn't
stop watering. They were all staring at me while I ate and a couple
of people chuckled at my poor hand-eating skills. Towards my last
bite of the meal, I thanked the woman once again, even though she had
never thanked me. I served myself another cup of kava and waited while the rest of the
people ate.
I don't know exactly how much time passed by until the
others were served their dinner, but it seemed like forever. I kept
fantasizing about a nice hot shower back in the bungalow, and didn't
speak much during this time. My tongue was completely numb from the
kava. I felt a little drunk, very much stoned, and my body was almost
ready for bed. Va and Nikita had promised to walk me back to the
cabins where I was staying, after dinner, since I was pretty much
clueless about doing it myself. I have a terrible sense of direction
and besides, it was my first day in Fiji, and I obviously didn't know
my way back. I started getting antsy seeing there was no movement on
these people's parts to even begin eating. I tried calming myself
down with another cup of kava and obtained the reverse effect.
-“Suva?”. I asked. “When are we leaving?”
-“Soon”, answered Va. “After we eat”.
Nikita didn't even look at me. I started freaking out
because no one was even paying attention to the fact I had stayed
with them all day, ate, drank, hung out, and was now
ready to head back. It felt as though they were ignoring me on
purpose. I was tired of the melodies playing on the broken radio.
They weren't amusing anymore. My eyes kept flying around the room and
I couldn't sit straight. Shortly after, more people began arriving at
the tepee and serving their own dishes, and eating at their own
paces. I couldn't see or feel the sun anymore. The room was dark and
it was hard for me to focus with my eyes. I started feeling scared
and grasped my fannypack in desperation. Va was almost done with his
dinner by now. The Fijian voices in the room had completely
transformed from being harmonious and sweet, to machiavellic. I
decided to step outside of the tepee and breathe some fresh air.
The night was as dark as the insides of a whale's mouth.
All I could see were the whites of the villagers' eyes. There wasn't
one star in the sky; therefore, it was hard for me to distinguish
where the division of the earth and the sky was. The hot curry had
filled my belly and the kava made me clumsily step back into the
tepee once again.
-“Va, when can we leave?”, I asked once again. “I'm
tired”.
No response.
I suddenly decided I had to get the hell out of that
place. I would walk back even if I had to do it alone.
- “Sarah?”, said the taller one of Va's aunts. She
once again signaled me with her finger.
What the hell did she want?, I
wondered. I couldn't reason at this point, however, I followed her
outside the tepee for some stupid reason. All I could see were the
whites of her eyes, for it was completely pitch black. I could hardly
even stand straight.
- “My cousin sells
beers in the village. Buy for us?”, she said.
I could hardly
comprehend and suddenly felt an even stronger energy filled with
rage, vertigo, and vehemence running rapidly through my veins. I
thought I was going to pass out right at that moment. Even so, I kept
my cool of the outside and tried to control myself. I couldn't see
anything; it was as though I was speaking with a ghost.
- “No!”, I said. “I
have no more money. I bought you and your whole village all this
food, plus rum, and you still expect something?! I'm going home now”
I responded sturdily.
I began walking inside
realizing that I had left my shoes inside the tepee, and suddenly,
she grabbed my arm forcibly. It almost stopped my circulation. My
body shaked. I pushed her away.
- “Let me go!”, I
said.
She approached me once
again and in the most insane murmur she whispered into my ear.
- “We are friends, I
think. Friends help other friends, right?”
I could feel her cold
curry breath pulsing against my ear.
I ran back into the
tepee, grabbed my shoes, and told Va
I was leaving immediately. I was so freaking angry, drowsy, and ready
to evacuate from there, that it didn't even make a difference
anymore. I was willing to do anything it took. Va
followed behind me,
and told me he would walk me back to the cabin. The lack of light
created more confusion. Not only was I completely out of it, but I
also couldn't even see the piece of ground where I was standing. I
heard a voice shouting to me from behind. It was coming from the
tepee.
- “Sarah! We get
beers and tomorrow I bring you bill”, said the woman.
I cursed her under my
breath for the rest of the way. I tripped and scrapped my knee as we
left the village. I could see absolutely nothing. No street light, no
lamps, nothing at all. Va
led the way. He knew the village like the palm of his hand. I felt
as though I was completely blind. The only guide I had to lead me was
the noise of his flip-flops on the ground.
I followed the sound
all the way back. Somehow I trusted it. An occasional car would
sometimes pass by, honk at us, and shine its bright lights. It was
the only grasp of control and consciousness I experienced throughout
the whole walk back. Even so, the cars still scared me because their
appearance was completely unexpected and I kept thinking I would
surely get run over by one of them.
I don't know how, but
somehow, after this lengthy, gloomy, and pitch black tunnel, I
finally saw a light. It was a tiny light bulb flickering on and off as
though it was about to burn out. The words
Suvaloo
Bungalows were carved into the
piece of wood where the light sputtered. My body felt a sudden flush
of relief. I was back.